论文标题
风引起的对浅水中表面重力波形的变化
Wind-Induced Changes to Surface Gravity Wave Shape in Shallow Water
论文作者
论文摘要
波形（例如波浪偏度和不对称）会影响沉积物的传输，遥感和船舶安全。先前的工作表明，风会影响中间和深水中的波形。在这里，我们通过风诱导的表面压力来研究风对不同风速和方向的浅水中波形的影响，以提供对风引起的形状变化的第一个理论描述。对在浅的，平坦的底部传播并由杰弗里斯型表面压力强迫的长波的多尺度分析可产生前向或向后的korteweg-de vries（kdv） - 螺栓脉动，取决于风向，取决于风向。对称，单生的初始条件的演变是数值计算的。所得波增长（腐烂）在陆上（近海）风，并变得不对称，后面的形状变化最大。波轮廓偏离参考孤立波的偏差主要是边界波和尾随，分散，腐烂的尾巴。陆上风会随着时间的流逝而增加波浪的能量和偏斜，同时减少了波浪的不对称性，而近海风的持有相反的持有。相应的风速被证明是物理上现实的，形状变化被解释为缓慢的生长，然后根据未强制的KDV方程来快速进化。
Wave shape (e.g. wave skewness and asymmetry) impacts sediment transport, remote sensing and ship safety. Previous work showed that wind affects wave shape in intermediate and deep water. Here, we investigate the effect of wind on wave shape in shallow water through a wind-induced surface pressure for different wind speeds and directions to provide the first theoretical description of wind-induced shape changes. A multiple-scale analysis of long waves propagating over a shallow, flat bottom and forced by a Jeffreys-type surface pressure yields a forward or backward Korteweg-de Vries (KdV)-Burgers equation for the wave profile, depending on the wind direction. The evolution of a symmetric, solitary-wave initial condition is calculated numerically. The resulting wave grows (decays) for onshore (offshore) wind and becomes asymmetric, with the rear face showing the largest shape changes. The wave profile's deviation from a reference solitary wave is primarily a bound wave and trailing, dispersive, decaying tail. The onshore wind increases the wave's energy and skewness with time while decreasing the wave's asymmetry, with the opposite holding for offshore wind. The corresponding wind speeds are shown to be physically realistic, and the shape changes are explained as slow growth followed by rapid evolution according to the unforced KdV equation.
