论文标题

在表面重力波中破裂和发作的能量学上

On the energetics of breaking inception and onset in surface gravity waves

论文作者

Boettger, Daniel G., Banner, Michael L., Barthélémy, Xavier, Keating, Shane R., Morison, Russel P.

论文摘要

准确预测断裂表面重力波的发作和强度是一个长期存在的理论和应用兴趣的问题。最近,Barthélémy等人(https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2018.93)研究了在深度和中间深度水中焦点波群的能量学,发现破坏和非破坏性方案清楚地被正常的能量汇总,$ b $,$ b $,$ b $,$ b $,附近。此外,发现$ b $通过通用破裂阈值$ b_ \ mathrm {th} \大约0.85 $的过渡,在可见的断裂开始之前,最多可以在波浪时期的五分之一。此后,对2D和3D域以及浅水和浅滩的水波进行了数值验证,这种出色的打破启动的通用阈值已得到验证。但是,目前尚无理论上的解释,因为它作为破裂的预测指标。这项研究调查了使用一系列波数据包配置的数值波罐中不断发展的波峰的参数$ b $与不断发展的波峰的波峰能量增长率之间的对应关系。我们的结果表明,$ b $的变化时间与不断发展的波峰的能量密度收敛速率密切相关。这些发现进一步提高了对波浪破裂过程难以捉摸的过程的了解。

Accurate prediction of the onset and strength of breaking surface gravity waves is a long-standing problem of significant theoretical and applied interest. Recently, Barthélémy et al (https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2018.93) examined the energetics of focusing wave groups in deep and intermediate depth water and found that breaking and non-breaking regimes were clearly separated by the normalised energy flux, $B$, near the crest tip. Furthermore, the transition of $B$ through a generic breaking threshold value $B_\mathrm{th} \approx 0.85$ was found to precede visible breaking onset by up to one fifth of a wave period. This remarkable generic threshold for breaking inception has since been validated numerically for 2D and 3D domains and for shallow and shoaling water waves; however, there is presently no theoretical explanation for its efficacy as a predictor for breaking. This study investigates the correspondence between the parameter $B$ and the crest energy growth rate following the evolving crest for breaking and non-breaking waves in a numerical wave tank using a range of wave packet configurations. Our results indicate that the time rate of change of the $B$ is strongly correlated with the energy density convergence rate at the evolving wave crest. These findings further advance present understanding of the elusive process of wave breaking.

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